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 on: August 11, 2017, 08:11:38 AM 
Started by khalas - Last post by Tahsis
If your a good wood worker    ...   the wood does look good ....
    Myself   I choose the rubber D-Rail    simple to install .. need two people ...  all done in an afternoon .   
  The down side ..........    $$$$$$$

 on: August 10, 2017, 09:25:52 AM 
Started by khalas - Last post by khalas
Sounds like you had enough sound oak to work with.  Mine is punky throughout in places so all has to go. The choices as I see 'em are epdm d-rail or replace the oak with some durable wood.  None will be simple, so its a tossup between the bar-supported d-rail and perhaps equally or more difficult-to-install planking.  I can come up with white oak, live oak, old cypress, and old long leaf pine, but the compound curve along the gunwale would make installing long lengths interesting. We shall see.

 on: August 08, 2017, 04:28:12 AM 
Started by khalas - Last post by Johnnyvangogh
When I first found our NWB #8022 I took a soft pad with 36 grit sand paper and ripped over the oak full length. Then dropped down to several smoother grades to finally see where the real rot and other issues were. Multiple epoxy fills and coatings. Finally primed,rolled and tipped with urethane. After several years just
 a few small cracks on exterior and rusty bolt heads on interior. Did screw a stainless steel rub rail full length as a provide additional rub protection and it looks pretty. So living with this finish until next major paint job because the wood stiff,strong and original.  Pictures of paint job in photo's section.


 on: July 26, 2017, 05:18:06 PM 
Started by khalas - Last post by Tahsis
Hi   when I took the wood rub rail off   I had to use visegrips on most screws ,  but they did come out  ..  if they break off (some did )   oh well.....   they help with the bond , between the hull and deck ...
    what I did to attach the rail   ..  the D shape allows a inch and a quarter aluminum flat bar to be inserted the full lenght  .  drill a small hole every 9 inches . to access the  screw that I used to attach the rail   Stainless screws    ..   # 14 or 1/4 in .    use the flat bar inside the rub rail as a washer ... I joined 3 lenghts together ,    so   hole in rub rail   , drill hole in aluminum flat bar  ,  drill smaller pilot hole for the screw.  and tighten it down .  I put sikaflex behind the rub rail  .  I followed the original line for the top of the new rail   ,  it sticks down about an inch below the hull/deck joint ....   I filled that , full lenght with sikaflex .   The original   was some sort of polyester filler ..


 on: July 26, 2017, 05:06:45 PM 
Started by khalas - Last post by Tahsis
Hi    ya   the rub rails are continus pieces ..Sikaflex ends  .   under the light on my boat is foam       I wonder if yours has  been taken out ?
  the two ports on the bow and stern   are the  access for the eyes that are used for lifting the boat ...  I used mine to load her onto a trailer , when I first got her .  I may be doing that again   ,   She's on on dry land at present   ,  back-hoes are wonderfull machines ..!!!  LOL

 on: July 26, 2017, 07:27:01 AM 
Started by khalas - Last post by khalas
Greetings!  When you pulled the wood, how readily did the screws come out?  As to the bow-most and stern-most compartments, I reached down through the opening to which the lights mount and could feel no drains through the massive steel frame pieces.  I'll make another pass into the cavities and check again.

Thanks for the insight re the d-rail.  I have been looking at that ever since our colleague in the Netherlands installed his.  How did you attach the rail?  Did you use two continuous pieces and meet at the stem and stern and finish using the Sikaflex at the joins?

 on: July 26, 2017, 07:08:04 AM 
Started by khalas - Last post by Tahsis
Good Morning ....    Well ,,   after compleatly rebuilding my WB ,  you have alot of work ahead of you .   Power ... I got a small Honda Gen.  and works fine ....   Forward and aft comp.   there should be drain holes at the bottom of the compartment .   they ALL drain into the bildge .
  The Rub Rail......  I stripped the wood off and replaced with a rubber D shaped piece ...   full length,   so two 30 ft pieces ...  $1200.oo...  and then fill the space that is left with 291 Sikalex ...   ........  it's taken me 3 monthe full time work to get her done ......  I'll be posting pics  next week ...

 on: July 25, 2017, 06:04:11 AM 
Started by khalas - Last post by khalas
Quite a while since my last...many non-mwb snakes to kill and not a lot of time in the boat.  The rebuilt engine and subsequent install were pricey and came off well.  Have had all of the grandkids out on a few occasions; even did a bit of fishing.  What I need in the worst way is a slip to keep the boat in the water.  Working in the storage yard is a pain in the rear, and launching with the deuce is a non-trivial affair

First, the time has come to replace the ?original? white oak laterally fastened to the gunwale.  I suspect that getting the steel screws out will be a challenge.  Applied  some PB Blaster yesterday; I'll put the vice grips on today to see what happens.  Hoping that I do not have to resort to screw mates, or drill 'em out.  Does anyone out there have screw-removal suggestions?

Second, during the latest clean out, and bilge-pump overhaul, I noted that the bow-most and stern-most 'compartments' were brim full of rain water.  I could neither feel nor see any plugs.  I'll duct tape the accesses for a tiller and lights for time being after I get 'em dried out, then fab some sheet stainless and gasket to get something more robust.  I am less than eager to do any drilling and tapping.  I have not addressed bow/stern lights...they are down in the queue.

Third, I am wondering if there is any feasible means to dry out the balsa core.  My first thoughts are using a peristaltic pump for long-term vacuum applied via the holes that the top frames slip into, but pragmatically this appears to fall into the realm of fruitless Rube Goldberg endeavors.It also would require power that is not available in the storage yard.

Fourth, during the above-mentioned cleanup I noticed that paint could be somewhat removed with hose pressure, so I might try a power washer, then think about sanding.  Ugh!

Seemingly no end in sight.  Sort of like sawing legs on a stool!

 on: July 13, 2017, 06:25:04 PM 
Started by Tahsis - Last post by Tahsis
Thanks ...
 that really helps .   New electric Tach.    I'm learning a bunch about electric issues ..!!    LOL
     I'm going to know this boat well ......   She will be running around Nootka Sound ,  West Coast of Vancouver Island .....

 Confident that She will be great around here .....   canvas cover this fall.......
  Ah   "The Plans.........."     
Will post some pics when done ..

 Thanks Again

 on: July 13, 2017, 10:15:49 AM 
Started by Tahsis - Last post by belarus50
104 teeth

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